Barber guide

Pomade vs Clay vs Wax vs Paste: Hair Products Explained

Clay and paste give a matte, natural finish with medium to strong hold, best for textured and messy styles. Pomade gives shine and a slick finish for side parts and slick backs. Wax is in between. Gel gives the strongest hold, and sea salt spray adds volume before drying. Most short cuts suit a matte clay or paste.

By Modern Grooming Co, Flagstone · Updated 21 October 2026

Quick comparison

ProductHoldShineBest for
ClayStrongMatteTextured crops, messy styles, fine hair
PasteMediumLowEveryday natural styles
WaxMediumLow to mediumShort styles, piecey texture
PomadeMedium to strongHighSlick backs, side parts, classic looks
GelStrongHigh (wet look)Firm hold, curls
Sea salt sprayLightMatteVolume and texture before blow drying

How to apply

  1. Start with a small amount, about the size of a fingertip.
  2. Rub it between your palms until warm and spread thin.
  3. Work it in from the back to the front, through the roots first.
  4. Shape with your fingers, then add a little more only if needed.

Matching product to your cut

  • Textured crop: matte clay
  • Fade with length on top: clay or paste
  • Side part or slick back: pomade
  • Curly hair: curl cream or light gel (see our curly hair guide)
  • Fine or flat hair: sea salt spray, then a little clay

Water-based or oil-based pomade?

Water-based pomades wash out easily and can be restyled with water. Oil-based pomades hold longer and give more shine but take more effort to wash out. For most people, water-based is the easier choice.

How much to use

Hair lengthAmount
Short (crop, short sides)About the size of a pea
Medium (5 to 10 cm on top)About the size of a fingertip
Longer or thick hairStart with a fingertip and add more if needed

It is always easier to add more than to take it out.

Frequently Asked Questions

Should I put product in wet or dry hair?

Most clays, pastes and waxes work best in dry or towel-dried hair. Gel, sea salt spray and curl creams go into damp hair.

Will product damage my hair?

Not if you wash it out regularly. Build-up can make hair look flat and the scalp feel itchy, so wash it out at least every few days.

Which product is best for a fade?

A matte clay or paste suits most fades with length on top. Use pomade if you want a slick, shiny finish.

Can I use more than one product?

Yes. Many people use sea salt spray before drying for volume, then a little clay for hold.

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